Before getting into my time in Fes, it will be helpful to read 18 things you should know before visiting Morocco as I think this will be a good place to start planning a trip to any part of Morocco. When I finally decided to visit Morocco - I knew I would want to visit multiple regions of the Country . With that at the back of my mind - I set off planning and settled on Fes, Chefchaouen, Essaouira and Marrakech. Fes is an incredible city in the Northeast of Morocco; lesser known than some of the other locations; but an incredibly special place. It is also the 3rd largest city in Morocco and often referred to as the cultural capital of the Country.

VISA AND ENTRY REQUIREMENT

If you don’t require a visa; you can skip to the next section. I have one of the weakest passport in the world and require a visa to most Countries, including Morocco. I applied for my visa at the London consulate. It cost less than 50 GBP and took three business days to process. The interview was short but direct and firm with pointed questions asked about my reasons for travel; duration of travel; type of visa (multiple entry) and evidence of funds to support my trip. I was also required to have a ticket purchased. I had a reservation already but was required to pause the interview to go purchase the ticket and then return with the receipt and itinerary. I knew I was going to Morocco but I did not know if I was flying from London or Madrid or Nice (that part was still not resolved); so I bought a ticket on British airways (which is refundable within 24 hours) to meet the requirements to submit my application. (As always please check with the consulate in your Country of application to make sure you are meeting the application requirements in that region).

GETTING TO FES

My specific flight route and airlines were: London to Nice on British Airways; Nice to Fes (via Bordeaux) Airfrance and then Ryan air from Bordeaux to Fes (and then Marakech to London on British Airways). As an aside, If you find yourself with time; I recommend combining the South of France and Morocco; it is a fantastic travel combo and if you have a few days to spare in Bordeaux while connecting - Do it ! Bordeaux is a favorite around here.

ARRIVING IN FES

I have had a very few instances of interesting and demeaning moments with border & customs; my experience in Fes is at the top of the list. I have written a separate post about it here, so as not to distract from the purpose of this post which is to provide a guide to Fes. For this post, I will just say if you have a weak passport, make sure all of your visa application documents and receipts are on you or accessible via email; have copies of itinerary available and evidence of funds. And while it can be a very frustrating (and sometimes a demeaning process), keep your cool and answer questions politely and directly and finally do no let the actions or tone of a few border control agents taint your view of an entire nation.

GETTING AROUND FES

I booked a airport transfer with Morocco Trek Safaris. I usually do this in a Country I am not familiar with so I have a record I can share with my loved ones versus just taking a taxi at the airport. At the time of my visit to Fes, getting uber or similar was not an option. Besides that I mostly got around the city with the tours I booked and on foot given the proximity of my Riad to several places. At the end of my half day tour of Fes, the tour guide and driver were kind enough to take me to the train station to get my ticket to Marrakech before dropping me off at my Riad. On my last day, I opted for a taxi to the train station and the Riad helped me arrange one.

WHERE TO STAY

When in Morocco, I recommend a Riad - it is just a must but finding the right one can be daunting, I spent a full weekend researching Riad’s for my stays in Fes (and Marakkech) and my research paid off. I decided to stay at the Riad Dar Skalli. This was an excellent property; at the time of my visit, there was no pool, but it had a fantastic rooftop with views of the most gorgeous sunsets/sunrises; the rooftop also had a hookah lounge if that is your thing and sunbeds if you want to work on your tan. It was in walking distance to the market but not so close as to take away from the experience. I absolutely enjoyed my time here and will recommend it as an option if you are visiting Fes.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN FES

My first day in Fes was actually spent on a road trip to Chechaouen (more on that in a operate post). The following day, I booked a half-day private tour of Fes with Kenza Tour; I chose the private tour because it was reasonably priced and I could go at my pace. The tour started at 9:30 and ended at 1 p.m.. Absolutely enjoyed this tour. The first stop was to at the Bab Boujloud gate which is incredibly beautiful and lined with shops and cafe (I was told this was the unofficial entrance to the medina (market); followed by a stop at the Royal Palace of Fes (unlike palaces in Europe, you cannot explore this palace), however the exterior is spectacular. Just off the Royal Palace was Fes el Jdid where the Mellah (old Jewish quarter) is located; it is an excellent area to explore - don’t miss the Aben-Danan synagogue. The next stop was to Borj Nord is the old city fortress which offers some amazing views of the entire city of Fes and very protected so do not be surprised to see armed military and police patrolling here (but not in a distracting or imposing way); I really wanted to visit and support some local business so we stopped at a cooperative that handmake tiles and pottery - so many stunning pieces here ; along with the experience of seeing how the pieces come together. This was also a great stop to pick up gifts.

It was on to the Medina after that - first passing through the narrowest street in Fes - it was very narrow (about as wide as the Strada Sforii in Brasov, Romania , if you have visited). We also explored Fes el-Bali which is the world’s largest car-free space and has thousands of connected narrow alleyways lined with stalls/shops . This is a must visit in Fes. I also got to see the other side of the Bab Boujloud gate. The medina has got a spice section; perfume section; leather good section; food section etc. My guide was helpful with helping me bargain when I saw something I was interested in buying. There is a lot to see in the Medina area so if you are exploring on your own, give yourself time to fully experience this stop. In the Medina, I visited the exterior of the University of Al Quaraouiyine (aka Mosque and University Karaouiyn) - it is one of the leading educational and spiritual universities and debated to be one of the oldest universities in the world).

As you explore the Medina , pay attention to the intricate detailing on doors and building - it was an architecture and design lover dream; thankfully my tour guide was available to point a lot of these out to me. Our next stop in the Medina was to Medersa Bou Inania which is one of the few religious sites that is open to non muslims ; it is the only Madrasa (religious school) which also had a congregational place of worship; I was speechless walking the grounds - stunning beyond measure (as with any religious site, only visit if you can be respectful). (spoiler alert: there are a few Madrasa in the Fes Medina).

Our next stop was the Al-Attarine Madrasa - another stunning stop; while visiting this Madrasa, you can also visit some of the vacated student quarters that overlook the courtyard (not sure how much studying I would do if my living quarters had such a stunning view). Chaouwara Tanneries was the next stop and a warning - the stench is poignant; this is the largest leather workshop in Fes and if you know nothing about how leather is made - you will be in for a massive surprise (a mask will be recommended; the patrons also give you mint leaves to rob against your nose to help with the smell). If you are interested in leather goods (bags; sandals etc); this is a great place to pick one up. A stop at Nejjarine Museum the wood arts and crafts museum is also worth your time.

WHERE TO EAT IN FES

Just about every riad I considered served breakfast and it was a massive spread that there were days I opted out of lunch. I dined at Palais Batha one evening (on the recommendation of the Riad) the food was local traditional Moroccan and it was decent; however, they demanded a tip to the servers and kitchen staff and entertainment before I barely took a bite out of my meal or even asked for my bill by telling me I was ungrateful for the service and entertainment if I did not tip. While I am always happy to tip especially if the service is great ; the way they went about it was unpleasant. On my last night, I dined at a spot in the Fes Medina call the Ruined Garden - you need a reservation; the ambiance, the food, the service - everything was phenomenal (chef’s kiss). Because it was late, they also offered to walk me back to my Riad after my meal (top class service at the Ruined Garden).