HOW TO SPEND A DAY IN BRASTILAVA - A DAY TRIP FROM VIENNA TO THE SLOVAKIAN CAPITAL CITY
I could not pass up the opportunity to visit the Slovakian capital after finding out it was just an hour by train from Vienna. The train from Vienna Oberkampf station departs every hour and will cost you under 20 euro. The OBB train ticket also covered my local transportation in Slovakia. Temperatures were in the tenS, but it felt closer to zero and wind gust was unbearable at times; coupled with intermittent light drizzling it should not have been a pleasant trip, but it was, and I am thrilled I added the trip to my Vienna itinerary. Due to the weather, I did not do and see as much as I wanted; but I did do enough to know this is a city/country you want to visit - even if it is on a day trip.
My day trip was from Vienna; but you can also make the trip from Budapest, Hungary or Prague, Czech Republic.
Once we arrived, I made my way through the main terminal to exit the train station; the buses into the city were lined up on both sides of the street. Google maps are beneficial in sorting which bus to take to get to where. On the advice of a friend, I started the day at Grassalkovich palace and gardens. Even with all the leaves withered in the garden due to the harsh winter, you could tell this garden is lush and beautiful - something to explore in the summer and fall definitely. I could not enter the Palace as this is not just any palace but also the Presidential Palace. This is a recommended first stop because it is between the train station and the old town (which is a must). There is a fountain outside the Palace in the shape of the earth which local tell me represents freedom. While the Palace is not open to the public, the garden is open to the public.
From the Palace, it is a 20-minute trek to get to Bratislava castle; on a good weather day, I imagine it is a pleasant trek. However, due to the weather, I opted for the bus which dropped off very close to the main entrance of the castle. I enjoyed exploring the castle; the red carpet winding stairs and gold framed mirrors that lined the door is just the kind of thing that makes me happy (and also makes for excellent photo backdrop). Tickets to the castle cost about 10 euros. This is also the right spot for a bathroom and/or food break. Access to the toilets at the entrance will cost you 2 euros, but the facilities are clean and not smelly (compared to what you might find as other heavy tourist spots around the world); there are also a few restaurants just outside the entrance. I did not dine at any - but I have read decent reviews. Do not miss the castle garden especially if you are visiting when the temperatures are friendly.
If you choose to trek from the Palace to the castle, please be aware - it is uphill (what local call city hiking). The castle is also ideally situated on a hilltop overlooking the Danube river - When you exit the castle, do not leave without stopping by the viewing platforms which provide an incredible view of Bratislava and the Danube river. I am told on a clear day, you can see Austria from this view ledge (How awesome is that ?). Next to the castle is the Slovakian Parliament building and while it is not open to the public - there is also viewing spot here that gives the same excellent view but less crowded, and it is a great spot to truly capture the beauty of the castle on a hill with the four spears.
Next stop was to Slavin - this was a bit away from center and if you take the bus or trek it - you will find yourself passing by some very very lush homes and offices - including the American embassy - I was so taken by the beautiful modern architecture that it took me longer than it should have to get to Slavin. Slavin was recommended as a spot to get incredible views of the city; however, it is also a memorial monument and military cemetery - walking around the monuments was poignant, I forgot to capture the views. After my time at Slavin, it was time to head to Old town, where I spent the rest of the afternoon. There is quite a bit to see in the old town but before I get to that; If you choose to do the same route I did - at this point I will recommend you catch a cab from Slavin to get to Devin castle.
Devin's castle is located on the frontier between Slovakia and Austria. Trying to get there via public transportation will take over an hour, and if you are making a day trip as I did, this may not be the best use of your time. On the advice of a local, you are better off taking a cab (she recommended a few cab companies to use - the numbers are included at the end of the post). I am told the castle is not that big, so it should take about an hour to explore and take in the views from here.
I spent most of my time in Old town - there is quite a bit to see here and several dining options. I recommend managing your time, so you have enough time in Oldtown to explore. I started at Michaels's gate which is the entrance to Old town. It took me about an hour and a half to see all of it. You can spend your time leisurely exploring at your pace and discovering the hidden gems in this part of town. However, if you prefer to have a guide, there are a few things I recommend. Start with a stroll down Michalska Street in the old town. Make sure to visit the Cathedral Dom vs Martina; this was the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary which included 11 kings/queens and eight of there consorts.
Keep an eye out for the "men at work" sculpture; it is a very unique sculpture and one that is easy to miss if you don't know it is there, but you should visit while you are in Old town. Do not miss the house of good Shepard - it is located across the street from the cathedral. It is the last standing building from the era of the Jewish quarter which maintains its original form. Today the building is home to the Museum of clocks which I hear is a great spot to visit if you have the time. Make sure to check opening times for the Museum when planning your trip. Next walk through Hviezdoslavovo namestie, where you will see the historical building of National theatre - this area of town has made appearances in several American action movies. This is an excellent spot to take a break - grab coffee and cake and rest your feet.
Visit the Modry Kostol aka the blue church. I was disappointed not to be able to visit the interiors of this famed Church; When planning your visit, be sure to confirm the opening times so as not to miss the interior. I have seen pictures, and it is exquisite. The exterior is equally as impressive. The church was built in Art Nouveau style (and it is no cliche to say that pictures do not do it justice as it does not capture the intricate detailing of the church)
A short distance from Modry Kostol (on the corner of Klemensova street) is a house which is the most beautiful exterior in the right season. I was visiting in winter and did not get to see it at its best but check out this picture to get a glimpse at what I am trying to convey.
I received several food recommendations while planning my trip to the Slovakian capital; several of which were a short distance from the blue church - these include a lovely cafe - Le Miam that serves the best desserts - go early as they run out. I had a matcha latte and flavored mango dessert - I don't remember what it is called, but it was delicious. Other spots recommended were Panenska Kaviaren (coffee shop and cakes); SOHO Dunajska; Kava Bar; FIVE points Bratislava.
While in the city, keep your eye out for the SNP Bridge and tower - these two are a symbolic representation of the Bratislava's skyline.
