THE ATHENS CITY GUIDE - WHERE TO STAY ; EAT ; EXPLORE IN ATHENS, GREECE
I asked on instagram a few weeks ago which location you wanted to explore first - you overwhelmingly voted for Athens. That made my heart burst with joy because I wanted to bring Athens to you as well. Our hearts are aligned so let’s get to my time in Athens.
I worked with a girl a few years ago who took four weeks to holiday in Greece. I had lofty dreams of doing the same so I kept pushing off Greece until I could fit all of it into my schedule and budget. However, just after the new year, I had an itch to get away from the cold and rain in London. All of the affordable options only promised more rain and cold temperature. Athens was the only destination that promised warmish temperatures, so I decided to go. I took a late evening flight from London arriving in Athens just before midnight. Thank goodness for Uber.
Visa Requirement. If you have a travel limiting passport, Greece is a Schengen member country, which means you can gain access with a valid Schengen visa. Pro tip - when applying for a Schengen visa, make sure to request multiple entries - not two entries. Certain Schengen countries have the option for "two entries" on the application, so make sure you select "multiple entries" on your application form. Also, make sure to apply to the country you will be spending the most time - I cannot stress that point enough.
[read - travel destinations if you have a travel limiting passport]
Airport Transport in Athens. Because I was arriving so late, I did not consider taking public transport; instead, I ordered an Uber. The government has set a standard tariff from the Airport to the city. If you are arriving before midnight it is 38 Euros; midnight to 5 am is 54 euros. Keep that in mind as you plan your travel budget for Athens.
[Download my free travel budget template here]
Getting around. I did a fair amount of walking in Athens; the weather was lovely, when I was not walking, I took ubers/taxis - most of my rides were under 20 minutes, so not a terrible expense. I was able to do that because most of my itinerary was free / discounted. If you want to take public transport, this website has useful and helpful information.
How many days do you need? I arrived just before midnight on Friday and was on the 3:25 p.m. flight on Monday. Monday was a remote workday, so there were no explorations on Monday. Two days was sufficient to get through my list; I narrowed it down to my top things; however, another full day vacation day would not have hurt and may have made a day trip possible.
Where to stay. I stayed at the Novotel Athenes; it was not in the heart of the city, but it was central adjacent and in walking proximity to most of what I wanted to see/do. Walking proximity for me is 30 minutes or less. I had no complaints about the property, it was lovely. however, some of the areas surrounding the hotel was a bit rough looking. I never felt unsafe, but I also made sure not to walk in the dark. Staying there also opened my eye to another side of Athens that most tourists may not have seen. There is a massive migrant population in Athens, and a large percentage of those people live in the streets. It is incredibly heartbreaking and humbling to see.
Where to eat. Even before I thought Athens was a possibility, I had the red velvet pancakes from Estrella at the top of my list of things to eat in Athens. I was not disappointed; it was as yummy as it looked in pictures. Be warned it is a hefty portion. My next stop was Stani which I stumbled on by accident, It was the most beautiful accident. This bakery serves the most delicious Loukoumades, desserts, cakes, and yogurt. Do not leave Athens without trying Loukoumades (traditional Greek donuts with cinnamon and honey) or the Greek yogurt topped with toasted nuts and greek honey. I had both from Stani Athens, and it was incredible.
The next day, I brunched at Nice n easy ; I tried a few things from the menu and enjoyed every bit of it. If you venture the hike up to Mount Lycabettus, there is a restaurant there with an incredible view. I had a glass of champagne here to celebrate a successful hike; I did not dine here, although the food looked good. Manh Manh (aka Mani Mani) was a surprise find for me, and I recommend it for a nice sit-down dinner; I had a chicken pasta dish (you guessed it - it was fab). Just a short walk from Manh Manh and the Acropolis museum l is Lotte cafe-Bistrot, it is an excellent spot for a post-dinner coffee and cake. Lotte is a popular spot for locals and might require a wait if you were to dine in.
What to see/do. Being in Athens was surreal for me; I my junior year in college, I took a Greek mythology call and never in a million years did I think I would make it to some of the plates discussed in that class. But I did so I had to start at the Acropolis and I recommend it for your itinerary. I encourage you to take time before or after your time at the Acropolis to explore Plaka which is the oldest part of the city. It is part of old The Anafiotika neighborhood, is incredibly scenic. To properly explore the Acropolis, you should plan about four hours.
It started raining just as I arrived, which limited my time here. As you make your way around the Acropolis, keep an eye out for Dionysos Theatre; the temple of Athena; Erechtheum; Herodes Theatre. Across the road from Acropolis is the Areopagus hill (aka Mars Hill); it looks basic initially until you hike to the top of it and are left speechless by the incredible view of the Acropolis; it also used to be the court of appeals in Ancient Greek. Short walk downhill from Areopagus and Acropolis is the Roman Agora, Hadrian's library, and Temple of Olympia Zeus. These ancient sites are all in the same neighborhood; I recommend planning to see all of them in one visit. If you plan to visit ALL the ancient sites (I did not), ask about the combo ticket. At the time of my visit, it cost 30 euros per person and can be used within five days of purchase.
The national garden is a great spot to have a relaxing wander around; the grounds are extensive, so spend a few minutes mapping out which parts you want to see; if you have got time, then take your time and wander around. The National Library of Greece is a great spot to visit. However, the library is closed on the weekend for planning purposes. Every Sunday at 11 a.m., the changing of the guards' ceremony happens at the Hellenic Parliament. I suggest arriving around 10 / 10:15 to secure your spots; the marching begins around 10:30 a.m. The ceremony is one of my favorite changing in the guards' ceremony I have experienced. If you want some great views or want a bit of vacation workout (or both), a hike up Mount Lycabettus is one I always recommend to anyone heading to Athens. Athens is the home of the first Olympics, and as a fan of the Olympics, I could not pass up a visit to Panathenaic Stadium; it cost about 10 euros but walking the grounds where the first modern Olympics was held (also the 2004 Athens Olympics) was priceless for me. The atrium at the Zappeion is one that came highly recommended; unfortunately, there was a bridal expo there the week I was visiting, and I could not gain access.